Posts tagged with “Tiras Mountains”
Namibia Tour 2017 – Part 2
Kolmanskop
Mariki was up early to climb the rocky koppie just meters away from Zum Anker. It provided a nice bird’s eye view of Luderitz.
We were the only newbies to Luderitz. As the rest of the touring group had all previously done Kolmanskop, we went there on our own. This was one of the two primary objectives of my tour, and we did not intend missing this.
Due to high numbers of tourists, we were divided in three groups. English, German, and Afrikaans. Our guide was very knowledgeable, and her presentation very good. Space would preclude a complete rundown of the history of Kolmanskop, but you can read more about it at http://kolmanskop.net/
But in short, diamonds were found there in 1908. It was so prevalent that it was picked up in jars, even at night with diamonds identifiable in the moonlight. Amazingly, each house in Kolmanskop at that time had electricity and a telephone, with ice blocks being delivered to each house every morning to be used in the “top loader” fridges to cool down food. The complex even sported a pool which looked about25m x 25m and about 3m deep. However, in 1928 even richer diamond deposits were found at Oranjemund, and everyone then flocked there, simply leaving their homes at Kolmanskop. Easy come easy go, I guess.
I’d prefer not to stay in this one.
The railway line between Luderitz and Aus, which had been in rehabilitation for more than ten years now, had been built at that time within an amazing ten months by 1908. It is scheduled to re-open again this year. It seems like an uphill battle, though, as there are places where whole sand dunes became settled across the tracks.
Johnie hoped to go on a tour to Bogenfels, but apparently these tours require two days’ notice, for which we did not have sufficient time. We took a drive around the Luderitz peninsula, instead. We managed to see Kleiner Bogenfels,
and also went down to one of two fjords. The rather bad smaller roads caused us to thereafter rather aim for Diaz point, where the wind was blowing that I believe would meet the criteria of “fresh”. Sommer very fresh.
Water over a troubled bridge?
Down below from Diaz cross a young man had a spot of bother with his Nissan bakkie. After a picnic with his girlfriend, he got stuck. Under Rosie’s command those of us close enough not to be able to ignore his plight, were all commanded to assist in pushing the bakkie back to dry ground.
It turned out that, independent of our group, my remaining brother also arrived in Luderitz sometime during the day. Just after dark we happened to pass each other on the road, and he recognized my vehicle. Well, he should, I would think. I’ve had it for the past 17 years.
I took him along to Barrels, where the rest of our crowd already convened for dinner.
We might have arrived there a bit late, as the place was full, and we were taken through the kitchen to what seems to be a breakfast corner. This was a lot quieter than the hustle and bustle of the main restaurant and bar. We also met up again with the gentleman with the Nissan. He still had the same girlfriend.
We had to wait rather long for our food, but we were advised that, due to the popularity of the place, if you’re not there by six in the evening, this is bound to happen. We in any event were not in a hurry.
Day three
The horses of Aus, Tiras Mountains, Gunsbewys
We could once again get on the road fairly quickly, as we only had to pack our bags, with all the camping stuff having remained in the bakkie for the two nights we stayed at Zum Anker.
Before we left we visited the campsite at Shark Island. It looked rather nice, but I understand Shark Island (as the rest of Luderitz) to have a bit of a reputation for being windy. Shark Island was a concentration camp between 1905 and 1907 where Nama and Herero prisoners were held. A monument with several plaques had been set up to commemorate a rather grisly bit of genocidal history.
[Picture: Mariki Stassen]
Now having mobile phone contact with each other, we left before the rest of the convoy. Apart from Kolmanskop, the feral horses of Aus were the other item high on our bucket list and we wanted to spend time at the Garub viewpoint about 20km’s before Aus.
The history of these horses is unclear. Different theories had been put forward, such as that the horses came from the Duwiseb breeding station, that they originated from a 19th century cargo ship, or that they became scattered from South African Expeditiary Forces during the first World War. Whatever their origin, they adapted to the harsh environment.
Due to ongoing drought (now apparently in its fourth year) steps had been taken to provide limited support of the horses in terms of feeding and water. More information could be found at http://www.wild-horses-namibia.com.
When we got to the viewpoint, two rather lame and skinny horses were hanging around. They came to within touching distance of us, but remained wary.
[Picture: Mariki Stassen]
We overlooked the plain below where a number of Gemsbok could be seen.
Shortly thereafter more horses approached the water hole, and some came up to the viewpoint. At one stage a mare approached the viewpoint, causing a flurry of two other mares neighing and rearing, with one of them then departing. The remaining two mares then came together, necking each other.
This was really a site worthwhile spending time at.
The rest of our convoy joined us, and from there we departed for Aus. This was our first hot day with temperatures measuring 32 degrees.
I had to fill the bakkie up at Aus. We in any event had to go back to the shop at the garage just to check on something. When we passed through on our way to Luderitz, I took a travel brochure from the magazine rack. Going through it in Luderitz, however, I spotted what seemed like a price on the back cover of the book, …
Namibia Tour 2017 – Part 3
Day four
Gunsbewys
[Source: Imagery © 2017 Landsat / Copernicus, Data SIO, NOAA, U.S. Navy, NGA, GEBCO, Map data © 2017 AfriGIS (Pty) Ltd, Google www.google.com/maps]
Trying to describe our journey with words and pictures can simply not do justice to the experience. Everything is big and vast and majestic. It enfolds you. You need to live it to get a feel for it. So bear with me in the endeavours that follow.
Hart wie Kameldornholz ist unser Land
Und trocken sind seine Riviere -Das Sudwesterlied
Arriving at Gunsbewys gave a first impression of a dusty farmstead with outside buildings. The farm itself had never actually been actively farmed. The fenced in erf has very little green. And looking around you, you see vast expanse of land with very little that livestock would be able to live off.
However, Gertrude turned out to be a living encyclopedia. One of the buildings houses a display of the animals and wildlife to be found in the area. The magazine Go! visited Gunsbewys and interviewed Gertrude inside her display. You can find the video clip here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99p4yBaigsI
Cooking is done by green power, using the sun.
Electricity is generated by solar power, with battery backup to last through the night if used sparingly.
Gertrude provided us with laminated cards and instructions how to get to various places of interest close to each other at the southern foot of the Tiras mountains. These included San rock paintings, and evidence of the San people having been active there at some stage.
The spots were clearly marked and we could easily find all but one of the attractions. It was 32 degrees, but in the extreme arid conditions, it felt like 26 degrees. Only a slight breeze is required to improve comfort.
The evening Gertrude took us on a short drive of about 3 km’s away from her house on a sand track. To my embarrassment my vehicle got bogged down in what appeared to be very straight forward sand driving, albeit at a bit of an incline. As it happened at the end of the motorised journey, it did not matter – for the moment.
Once disembarked, we have not walked 10 meters before Gertrude pointed out three markings in the sand. It looked like three little half moons, with nothing to it. However, as she demonstrated to us, it turned out to be a spider trap.
[Picture: Mariki Stassen]
Gertrude would point out the small markings of beetles and small creatures.
[Picture: Mariki Stassen]
We could follow the trail of a dung beatle forcing his black gold uphill to where his family was waiting on the feast. I may mention that my nutritional needs differ vastly from the amaBhungane’s.
Gertrude demonstrated how one could collecte iron oxide with magnets from the dunes.
We could see the tracks of the Gemsbok that we saw running as we pulled up there. The Gemsbok’s urine patch was the only remotely wet spot around. We stayed there, watching the sun set on the dunes, before returning home.
Gertrude was very impressed with Adriaan’s driving skills, and even named him “the headboy of headboys”. Gmph….! She was less impressed with Johnie’s endeavours to turn his Land Rover around in the limited space of the sand track. She even jumped out to help push in spite of Johnie’s protestations that he was not stuck. I chose not to stick around, and removed my bakke from the scene downhill in reverse gear, rather than to invite any comments on my driving skills.
That evening Gertrude joined us again for wors and patties, pap, salad and wine. I’m not much of a cook, so I stood amazed at the absolute five star meals that the ladies could organise (to be executed as per instructions by the males) every day.
As one can imagine, harmony is key to living, touring and cooking in this confined type of environment. If someone in the group got irked by anything, they were very good in hiding it. This was, of course, critical to the success of the tour.
Day five
Koiimasis
The plan on our departure was for Gertrude to take us on a drive over her farm. However, as her 4×4 had a flat battery, and as Toit’s bakkie was a two-wheel drive, there was a change of plan. Adriaan was provided with directions to a dam on the farm, and requested to check the water level. Should the dam be overflowing, the water pump needed to be switched off.
Whilst waiting on the departure, and because I had nothing better to do, I decided to check my tyre pressure. I forgot to inflate my tyres for the load before I left home, so it should be normal. Much to my surprise, though, I found the tyre pressure on all four tyres to be 2.8 instead of between 2 and 2.2kpa! This, of course, explained why I could not make headway the previous evening on the sand track.
We had a rather splendid drive on the sand tracks on the farm, similar to the one of the previous evening, but this time with no problems at all. Of course, it goes to show the importance of tyre pressure, but even more so, the need to actually check you tyres before embarking on sand driving!
We arrived at the built dam which was filled to the brim with water. A wonderful sight in the middle of such a dry area.
On our way to the dam we could see a number of Gemsbok in the distance seemingly racing each other. Or maybe the one in front had a tiff with the rest and was making a beeline to safety.
From there we went back to the D707 where Gertrude and Toit & Christine were waiting for us. A friendly farmer who drove past insisted that we first pay a visit to his farm. That we duly did, even though he was not there! At this farm, Weissenborn, a lot of time had gone into creating lush green surroundings in the otherwise arid environment.
We said our farewells to Gertrude, and left for Koiimasis Ranch. Following Gertrude’s warning of thick sand on the D707, Toit was promoted to second position in the convoy with …