Posts tagged with “Hamerkop”
The Whale Trail Hike – Part 2
Day 2 & 3
Day 2: Cupidoskraal to Noetsie
According to the map provided, this hike would be “15.2 km – moderate approx. 8 hours”.
Cape Nature’s map:
We did an earlier start at 08h00. We left behind the containers to be collected and taken to our next destination. I must say, I’m not sure how you do a five day hike carrying all those stuff plus foodstuffs along.
This route also started with a very steep incline, but not going as high as the first day.
Once on top of Hamerkop (453m) a chilly wind is blowing from the north.
Here too, species are found that grows only on this spot. The variety is vast.
From Hamerkop, we could set our sights on our destination: Noetsie.
Viewed from below, Hamerkop has many shades of green.
Eventually, by 15h00, we spotted our hut down below. And it is something to behold.
The hut overlooks the sea. The kitchen has a stoep with a view to the west (the direction we would be heading the next morning) and the braai room faces south. It is an absolute marvellous sight.
Day 3: Noetsie to Hamerkop
The 8,5km for today is described as “difficult”. The reason being a constant series of ups and downs, the highest thereof being a spike of 96m.
At Noetsie we have seen some dolphins, and again along the way and beyond Vaalkrans. The route is a track on the cliffs from where one looks down on the sea. The information pack provided, warned against going too close to the edges or attempt to climb down the cliffs.
Over the next two days we also saw a number of African Oystercatchers (also known as Swart Tobies, although my Latin friends call them haematopus moquini for short). They were not good at posing for the camera, and I could not get a picture of any of them. As a consolation prize I did get their footprints, though. (If you are not impressed, I will understand.)
In the cliffs beneath there are numerous caves.
A definite highlight of the day was Stilgat, about halfway to Hamerkop.
A lot of trouble went into building flights of stairs down to the pool. Actually, a series of pools. Some members of the team did a swim.
We had our lunch at Stilgat, whereafter we headed out for Hamerkop hut where we arrived just after two. Once again, a special setting, and special accommodation.
Part 3 follows – see link below…
The Whale Trail Hike – Part 3
Day 4 & 5 and General Comments
Day 4: Hamerkop to Vaalkrans
This was a 10,5km walk, described as “moderate”.
The first about 4,5km we walked on the beach. Low tide (tables provided in the hut) was at noon. We started just before nine, counting on catching the outgoing tide and to have increasingly harder sand to walk on as we went along.
That did not really work out the way I figured it in my head. We walked in each other’s tracks to ease the strain on our calves. This was suggested by the information poster in the Hamerkop hut, and it works very well. Not so much for the one walking in front, though.
Past the Lekkerwater Lodge the track swung away from the sea, and we once again walked on the cliffs overlooking the sea.
The rock formations and pools on this stretch are just amazing.
We arrived at Vaalkrans just past 2.
Two members of of our team had to arrange an urgent exit to head home, since existing flight arrangements for 19h00 the following evening turned out to be not from Cape Town but from Johannesburg. A bit of nifty footwork (asking very nicely) and an hour and a half trip on the back of a bakkie resolved the crisis.
At dusk I walked up the koppie behind the hut to find a signal for my mobile phone. On my way back I spotted a dead puff adder on the road. I realised it could not have been dead for too long, since there had been no dead snake when I walked up the hill. So just to be safe I told the dead snake to hiss off. Which he then duly did, and by a happy coincidence, away from me. I am much more partial towards dead snakes than any other species of snakes. I did manage to get a shaky video clip of the snake.
Day 5: Vaalkrans to Koppie Alleen
We were looking forward to an easy 7km walk on the last day. One needs to be at Koppie Alleen by noon to catch the shuttle. However, due to some members having pressing work commitments later the same day, we managed to arrange for the shuttle to be there by 11h00 already. So we started our last day’s walk at about 07h00 the morning.
We spent quite some time at the Hippo Pools, although we did not spot any hippos. Maybe now is a good time to mention that we also did not see any whales. I thought maybe Hermanus bay has hogged all the good whales and sent the second team over to De Hoop to do their thing, but not so. The whale season is between June and November, and we’ve been here in the first week of May.
We did, though, on numerous occasions saw pods of dolphins of up to 8 – 10 together.
The problem with these pools are, every 10 yards you move, you find a better angle for an even better photo than the previous one.
When we arrived at the spot where the shuttle should await us at 10h50, it was there already.
The shuttle took us on a 45 minutes’ drive back to Potberg where we had a short debriefing, giving feedback to Cape Nature officials on what was good and what was better.
And so ended a remarkable 5 day hike!
Comments
As a novice hiker, I did not have much of an idea how to prepare.
- It so happened that my son’s schoolbag was actually a 25 litre backpack, so we had one to take along.
- Halfway through day two I began suspecting a blister might be forming under my foot. One of our teammates provided me with blister plasters – something I never heard of before. Blister plasters contains hydrocolloid particles that seems to work wonders on both suspected, already formed, and broken blisters. In my case it prevented the blister to come to full fruition.
- The slack packing option offers quite some leeway in what one can take along. Although our 70 litre boxes were filled to the top (it included our sleeping bags and cushions), the cooler box had still ample space. I could have gone more exotic than having to stick to tap water for the duration of the hike.
- Speaking of which, at some huts the tap water is not drinkable, but then water is provided in water cans. I forgot about this and swallowed down some pills from a tap next to a notice that says the water is not fit for human consumption. Luckily I suffered no ill effects. I guess it was the pills.
- My shoes were well worn trail runners, which turned out to be a good choice. It survived the terrain well. I did have to glue one part back afterwards though.
- I paid no attention to socks and, in fact, walked with spanking brand new ones. This was not a good idea and one could even consider investing in blister (preventing) socks.
- Lightweight and water repellent clothing is a splendid idea for a hike like this.
The map that Cape Nature provides has very interesting and useful information. Apart from showing the route maps, it indicates the inclines of the routes, as well as the energy required to walk the route.
Additional reading
Cape Nature provides very extensive information on the whale trail:
From that link you can also access the Whale Trail Map:
https://www.capenature.co.za/uploads/files/activities/Whale-Trail-Map.pdf
And to the Whale Trail Information Sheet:
https://www.capenature.co.za/uploads/files/What-to-do/WhaleTrail-Information-Sheet.pdf
PG Jonker
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