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Category “Johnie does Saddle Hill”

Saddle Hill – Chapter 1

Friday, 23 July, 2010

[By Johnie Jonker]

[Adapted version published in Leisure Wheels, March 2010]

Background

In 2006 I enquired as to the suitability of my 2001 Forester to be permitted on a 5-day Saddle Hill/Spencer Bay tour, departing from Luderitz. Don Nieuwoudt from West Coast 4×4 thought that this would be possible and subsequently put my name on his July school holiday tour list.

Not without reservations, though.  I was reliably informed that Don was heard saying: “Hierdie ou wil wragtag met sy Subaru deur die Namib!” (This guy seriously wants to do the Namib with his Subaru).

Other than varying routes, these kind of tours also come in a variety of themes, e.g. the manne tours (men’s tours), photographic expeditions, and then this one, which was more family orientated. Not that there was not opportunity for the “men to visit” or that there were not great images to be captured.  The daily routine was just quite laidback with latish starts after a good breakfast, so inevitably, no sunrise pictures.

Most importantly, the tour was fully catered. So other than clothing, sleeping bags, pillows, 25liters of water, snacks and drinks, required nothing else. Fuel was available at Saddle Hill at a R1 premium above ZAR prices, but as (South African!) fuel was 85c cheaper in Namibia than at home, this was a bargain. Therefore no jerry cans were required, being very good news for us owners of small SUVs, as together with the 25liter of water, where to put it?

Journey

Other than a completely destroyed tyre – a spare which had to be couriered overnight from Windhoek to Keetmanshoop – we had a pretty uneventful trip from Pretoria, overnighting at Upington (Die Eiland) and two nights at Ais-Ais.

Tyre go home...

From there we travelled via Aus.

We visited the tame horses of the Namib – it felt as if I had not moved off, a very inquisitive horse would have put his head through the car window, just to say hi. Then through those kamikaze birds en route to Luderitz. What on earth were they?

Namib horse

Not so lucky was one unfortunate expeditioner who had lost reverse gear on his vehicle en route from PE to Luderitz. He was however duly introduced to a local resident with a suitable vehicle, culminating in a private rental agreement which enabled Gerhard and Nicky to accompany the rest of us on the tour. The stricken vehicle was left in the care of the Obelix Village owner until our return.

Having arrived a day early to experience the sights of Luderitz and Kollmanskop – and we were blessed with an exceptional spell of good weather, with the bay calm as a dam – we had the opportunity to see the rest of the group file in towards evening of the next day.

This was, to say the least, somewhat intimidating, as with the vehicles filling up the Obelix Village Guest House yard, the Forester soon disappeared amongst them. This is an emotion to be expected, as you are so clearly the odd one out, or “what is wrong with the picture”. Perhaps not a bad thing, as when on edge, you tend to try harder.

The tour departed from said guest house, which provided excellent accommodation and dinner the night before – the latter being included in the tour package. The convoy being 15 vehicles large – in hindsight too large; should be no more than ten – took a while to mobilize following Don’s final briefing, as some late starters had to first go into town for last minute shopping the Monday morning, having to wait for the shops to open.

Departing eastwards towards Aus past Kollmanskop, the tar road is left after 35km, heading NE on a gravel road, amongst others used by the Namibian Water Board for pipe/pump maintenance.

At the point where this secondary road was …

Saddle Hill – Chapter 2

Friday, 23 July, 2010

[By Johnie Jonker]

[Adapted version published in Leisure Wheels, March 2010]

Saddle Hill

Saddle Hill was used as base, with daily excursions departing from there, returning at around sunset. The idea was to do either the outward or return journey at low-tide, speeding up progress nicely, one way or another, at the same time being a great experience, sandwiched between the sea and dunes.

Saddle Hill Main Complex

Accommodation was basic, with the quick getting dormitories with 4 beds (and mattresses), and the slow, dormitories without doors and window panes, but with a number of bow tents equipped with beds, pitched inside – weatherproof enough, just lacking in audio privacy.

There were plans to improve/develop the accommodation, but due to the Namibian government at the time granting tourist concessions (to Namibian citizens) only on a year-by-year basis, the risk was high that the operator could lose his investment should he not be granted the concession again the following year. As soon as a multi-year concession of say 10 years could be secured, these plans would come into fruition. I am not aware whether at this stage this may well already be the case.

Being very close to the sea, the borehole provides very bracken water for washing purposes, which,  if you’re early, is hot. But better to keep your mouth closed in the shower and brush your teeth with that bottled water you brought along.

The food was phenomenal. Festus and his son turned out cuisine beyond expectation, night after night. Especially memorable was the morning we collected shellfish from the rocks, resulting in a formidable seafood stew. Thanks, Festus!

Sightseeing

In terms of things to see, there are of course the regulation/as per brochure stops and photo opportunities – the Bushman’s Candle, the rusted Jeep engine with the fan still tinking away in the wind, shipwrecks, the seal colony, deserted mining facilities, rusted equipment, Mercury Island, spectacular viewpoints, unusual geographical features and some sand.

Bushman's candle

There are however many other non-advertised sightings or discoveries which appeal to each one in a unique way – perhaps not grabbing the attention of the next person – making the experience memorable and special.

Often these smaller, non-landscape things, were the most fascinating. E.g. the flora, some mistakable for a yellow version of a Lavender Bush or a “mushroom” growing between the vehicle tracks, or water eroded indentations in rocks, or the silhouette of a rusted coco-pan resembling an antelope.

Oryx

Early morning fog is a problem at times in terms of visibility, and on one occasion we had to turn back from our destination prior to reaching it, as the promised feature would not have been visible. Fortunately the tour program was flexible, with events being swopped out, adapting to the weather. In the end we did get to see the initial fog-veiled feature.

Then there are the gullibility checks. Like the directions to the petrified seal site, having everyone chasing up a steep dune on foot, with the tour leader nonchalantly staying in his vehicle. But even with no seals, you are rewarded with a view which you otherwise would have missed.

Likewise the endemic jackal, which has adapted itself to running along the dunes. The legs on one side are shorter than those on the other, so that it can remain level as it runs along the dune slopes. The drawback is, that to get back home, it has to run all the way round the other side of the dune, as it would fall over if it ran with the short legs downhill. We were constantly on the look-out, but unfortunately missed this little creature completely. Perhaps next time.

Sand Driving

Opportunities abound to determine your car/own abilities/risk profile and develop your driving skill, although the difficult parts are always optional.

One of these skills is how to drive along the camber at the foot of a dune. …

Saddle Hill – Chapter 3

Friday, 23 July, 2010

[By Johnie Jonker]

[Adapted version published in Leisure Wheels, March 2010]

More Softroader

Rather than ground clearance, a bigger problem turned out to be front overhang and the resultant approach angle, which in the case of pre MY08 Foresters, is poor. As you attack a steepish dune, the bumper scoops up sand and deposits it onto the windscreen. Other than water, it does not run off easily, and using wipers would only scratch the glass. Your vision is often blinded to the extent that the only way out is to stop, wait for the sand to drain away, reverse down, and try again, this time with a more diagonal approach so you don’t hit the dune, but rather glance up it. For this reason a decent bash plate is required, i.e. structural, and not just bling.

What also sometimes helped was to go further back in the convoy, so that the front runners could blunten the approach to the dune somewhat. This did however have mixed results at times, as the sand was by then churned so loose, that traction was poor – bear in mind, no traction control, no LSD/diff-lock, only a front/rear viscous coupling on the Forester. So a purely mechanical drive-train.

Also important is the height the driver side window is wound up to. As the steering wheel is swung from side-to-side in order to gain traction up the slopes – and this was often necessary – the sand is spun through the open window, having you spitting every so often. Not nice.

In terms of the quasi-low-range of the car (1.41 ratio), this was useful to pull away over the sand ridge formed in front of the wheels when stopping, but without it, simply reversing along your own tracks and then moving forward over the hump would have been as easy. Where the low-range did help, was up the dunes.

On some of the optional steep dunes, you arrive at the foot of the dune at 80km/h in 3rd gear, changing down 3/4 of the way up. Due to a sticky second gear, sometimes refusing to go in, the results were more predictable (guaranteed, actually) to select low-range, rather than second gear at this point. This gives a slightly lower ratio than second gear (not on post 2002 Foresters, though – 1.2 reduction only) and did the trick every time. Of course this is only possible if your SUV/softroader has synchromesh low-range selection. Very few – if any – of the other pucker 4x4s in the group could do this. But then, maybe their 2nd gear wasn’t sticky.

Approaching the dunes at speed can be quite daunting, especially since you see mostly sky until the dune flattens out at the top. Spare a thought for your co-driver, who like yourself, is faced with the same uncertainty, but unlike yourself, is not in control of the car, and does not have a steering wheel to hang on to. The next best thing is then to put your hands on the dashboard with your head underneath it. Do not feel insulted when she considers your driving skills (what driving skills?!!) insufficient and rides shotgun with Ramon in UB40, the replenishment Landcruiser pickup that at times lead the convoy. This may not necessarily help though, as after one particularly vigorous waxing up a dune, Don enquired over the radio how my wife was holding up, with Ramon replying: ”She’s busy checking the fuses”.

This behaviour was not uncommon in the group, as after the 2nd day, quite a few companions had forsaken their drivers and remained in the camp, spending the day reading in the lovely winter sun.

Not my wife though. Here’s what she has to say:”My advice as a passenger to this awe inspiring place is NEVER stay at the base and read a book. Push your boundaries and go along. The scenery, the …

Saddle Hill – Chapter 4

Friday, 23 July, 2010

[By Johnie Jonker] 

[Adapted version published in Leisure Wheels, March 2010]

But hang on ….

 

Before rushing off and booking a place on the next desert tour for your softroader – Don was of the opinion that had it not been for the good rain season prior to the tour – and I do not know how good or how long prior – the Forester would not have been as successful, due to the otherwise more powdery texture of the sand. 

Chuffed Platbekpadda owner

Being a novice, I cannot tell to what extent this may vary. What was observed was that at no point the sand appeared wet/damp, and on many dune slip faces the sand “roared”, which I understood to mean a very dry aerated composition. How about an expert explanation, anyone? 

Summary

In conclusion, the qualities a softroader should therefore have to be able to negotiate this terrain – intensively experienced over 5 days – in order of importance: 

  • Ground clearance: In this case 195mm after tyre deflation to 0.8 bar was sufficient.
  • Structural bash plate that can bounce you off the sand and be used as a sled.
  • Short front overhang, rear not as important. The sand is soft, so an extended towbar will just make a dent in it and not slow you down.
  • Full-size spare wheel, tyre repair kit and a compressor.
  • Calibrated tyre gauge. After 3 unsuccessful attempts by one of the – up to that point – very capable drivers to get up a dune, all gathered round to try and puzzle out why this was the case. It was discovered that although his gauge indicated a tyre pressure of 0.8bar, another showed the tyres were still pumped to 1.1bar. Deflation solved the problem. It remains a mystery how he managed to get as far as he did. Possibly because it was a Land Rover?
  • Good power to mass ratio. No judgement can be made whether petrol or diesel is better in the case of a softroader – as all the other vehicles were either 4×4 bakkies or hardened SUVs – but the 80kW TD double-cabs probably got stuck most often. In the case of the Forester (92kW, <1500kg), petrol worked well due to the ability to get the revs up and thus save on gear changes. Three of the other vehicles – both petrol and diesel – did not have the acceleration to get up one dune from a narrow stretch of beach, having to take the easy way back along it.
  • Be familiar with your vehicle. Some very capable 4x4s failed to clear obstacles on the first attempt due to the driver not knowing how to – or that he should – lock the centre differential, or whether he should be in low-range or not. Also know where the engine power band is and at what point down changes should be made to keep it there.
  • Off-road training course. No, not really, unless it was in a similar real-life environment. Training courses at facilities like Gerotek is of little use as the only sand training done there is through a 100m tunnel of level Kalahari sand, teaching stopping/starting. The flow of the dune technique – approach, enter, maintain momentum, down-change, swing steering wheel, tap off, crest and maintain drive to the wheels on the slip face – cannot be instructed there.

 

What is useful though, is to learn what inclines your car can handle and at what speed they have to be entered in which gear. The Forester was one of the few cars in the Gerotek training group which attempted and managed the 70% incline at the facility. 

  • Low range – not at all.
  • Subsequently learnt (expensively) from a softroader with traction control – ESP and HDC OFF. The ESP ON/OFF option is generally standard on most SUVs, but the HDC only on a select few. To have the brakes